Domaine Camus Pere & Fils Charmes Chambertin Grand Cru 2014

Today you are most likely to be met at the domaine by Melle Camus; her father (Joseph) Hubert Camus is still working hard in the cuverie, despite his tender years – 1937 is his vintage. Hubert started full-time at the domaine after completing his military service, taking over from his father in 1974. He was the founding president of the BIVB and took on the presidential role twice more; he is and was a member of many other ‘syndicats’ besides.

On paper the domaine already existed in 1732, indeed it existed even earlier but there is no official trace of that now. The family like many others decided to abandon their vines during phylloxera – towards the end of this epidemic when many more were abandoning their land, great-grandfather Joseph Camus decided it was time to buy – the vines they own have changed little since that time – 18 hectares 2/3rds of which are grand cru. The family have occupied the same premises for generations now, though they have cellars dotted around Gevrey; ‘recent’ updates were the replacement of the old wooden fermentation vessels with enameled steel (in 1965) and the slightly more recent addition of air-conditioning to the cuverie.

Joseph is now helped now by one of his two daughters, Melle, who I found a delight to spend time with, indeed she even gave me a masterclass in how to remove the cork with wax-sealed bottle – though I still think I will still make a mess – she does a good line in jokes too!-www.burgundy-report